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Below
are the flintknapping tools that I prefer to use.
Most of
these were made by Jim Regan. Sadly, I have heard
that Jim
Regan passed away at the end of August, 2000.
I didn't
know Jim other than phone conversations, but his
flintknapping
tools were of the finest quality.
Flintknapping tool source:
T & J COPPER SUPPLIES INC.
KNAPPING TOOLS
TOM RICHTER
P.O. Box 63660
Pipe Creek, TX 78063
Phone: (830)510-6800
Or visit:
http://www.connecti.com/~knapper/
You can
order quality tools like most of these from their illustrated
brochure,
or you can see the tool sources links page for
other dealers.
Large hardwood-handle copper billet. The copper bit is 1 1/2" wide,
and 1,2" thick.
Used for heavy-duty percussion flaking. A round (1 1/2" x 6") copper
billet
also works well if the working end(s) are rounded.
Small hardwood-handle copper billet. The copper bit is 1" wide, and
3/8" thick.
Used for light percussion flaking, especially in thin bifaces, when
flaking with
a heavy billet is too risky. A small round copper billet (7/8" x
6") also works
well if the working end is rounded.
Pressure flaker. The nylon handle is 1" thick, and 5 1/2" long, and
has a setscrew
so you can adjust the length of the copper tip. The tip is 3/16"
in diameter,
you can order replacement copper rod tips, and an allen wrench to
fit the setscrew.
Used for pressure flaking to retouch edges. I prefer to round off
the tip with a file,
it reduces slipping.
Ishi stick. The hardwood or handle is 18" long, and 1" in diameter.
On the working end
there is a copper collar to prevent spliting, and a setscrew. The
copper rod tip is 1/4"
thick, and is adjustible. Extra tips and allen wrenches are available.
Used for heavy-duty
pressure flaking, and parallel flaking. I also round the tip on
my Ishi stick to help
prevent slipping. Tom Richter also sells high quality double tipped
Delrin (tough
plastic) Ishi sticks and custom Ishi sticks.
The Ishi stick was named after Ishi, possibly the last "wild" Indian
in North America.
Ishi was of the Yahi, a band of the Yana tribe, and was rescued
from jail in 1911 by
an anthropologist.
Ishi lived in the wilderness for 50 years before he was jailed,
and the rest of his
life was spent at the University of California museum. You can see
pictures of
Ishi, and read his story in the links page
of this web site.
Copper tipped notching tool, made from a standard pressure flaker.
Hammer the end to a screwdriver shape. I prefer using a copper-
tipped notching tool for good results while pressure notching small
points,
and thin blades.
Notching punch, made from a nail. If you are notching a large or
thick spear
(4"& up), I would highly recommend that you use a punch made
from a 6"
to 8" cabin nail. You can buy these nails at most hardware stores
and
lumberyards. Hammer the point into a screwdriver shape, as flat
as you
can make it. You can also order one of Tom Richters copper rods,
and
hammer the end to a screwdriver shape.
Grind stone. One of the most important tools in flintknapping. Dulling
the
edge before removing flakes (by pressure or percussion) is very
helpful in
preventing hinge or step fractures while removing large or long
flakes.
I recommend buying a regular aluminum oxide grindstone for a bench
grinder.
You can get these at any hardware store. The aluminum oxide is harder
than
flint, and therefore grinds it faster.
Notched pressure flaking pad. Made of rubber. You can also
use a piece of a tire tread, and cut the notch with a knife. Used
for
flaking with a pressure flaker, or an Ishi stick. I also like to
use
a larger unnotched rubber pad for notching.
Fluting jig. For advanced knappers. Made out of steel. Used for fluting
Clovis and other
Paleo-Indian fluted points. The fulcrum will slide into any of the
holes, depending on the
length of the biface preform. The slanted block of wood slides back
and forth for finer
adjustment. The copper-tipped wooden lever is pulled up and the
flute is removed from
the side facing the leather pads.